I wonder if I drop in a few of those chemical hand warmers how warm they'd get a couple gallons of this stuff? I should probably start looking for used insulated coolers to use for this, maybe not airtight but should hold the heat in.įrom the FAQ at their website: HotHands ® has perfected the process so that our warmers, depending on the individual product, produce heat anywhere from 100☏ to 180☏ for duration of 1 to 20+ hours. The 140F new solution worked best and was fast too. The 140F was clean product and the stuff in the ultrasonic was murky. And lastly in the video I mentioned they did a comparison test with some rusty chunks of the same steel, room temp, 140F, and 140F ultrasonic. I'd love to find a cheap way to have a recirculating pump like a parts washer to just let it flow over large items. I'll have to do something with the fuel tank soon, I'll probably have to buy more for that. They advertise that 1 gallon will dissolve 5lbs of rust, that sounds like a lot and I started with 2 gallons. I did strain the remaining liquid, transferred it to a smaller pan and cleaned all of the sediment from the large pan. The FAQ at the official website doesn't mention that at all, I'm sure they like their profits.
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I was watching a YouTube video this afternoon where a shop had a large heated ultrasonic cleaner full of Evaporust, he said when the level gets low they top it off with distilled water. After you get the nut then work on the bolt. Also, by saying impact, I was referring to an electric, either 3/8 battery or a 1/2" because letting it rattle for 5 seconds, at a time after a squirt of oil will drive, with the shock waves, the oil in deeper. The greases nipple is press fit/not threaded and you could pry with a knife edge or vise grips to remove it, then with a twist bit remove old rust/grease so you could get the penetrating oil where it needs be. I'm considering drilling that center tube for a grease fitting before I reassemble, does anyone else think that'd be a good idea? It'd sure make it easier to get some Deep Creep in there where it's needed.I looked at your frame photo again. The center section of the pivot bolt seems to be rusted in place inside the frame tube, I'm unable to turn the bolt or the nut at present.
I applied more Seafoam deep creep and will try to get out there again soon.
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I took a ride by storage earlier this afternoon to spend some quality time with that swingarm pivot, my 1/2" drive manual impact and a 2-1/2 lb.